Saturday 31 December 2016

My; 'The Terminal'; moment

On one lazy Sunday afternoon in demonetized India (yeah... I can say lazy… because even in demonetized India, banks have Sunday off!!!), for umpteenth time, I was watching a highly entertaining yet soulful movie ‘The Terminal’. While Viktor Navorski was going through those helpless situations in the movie, I happened to receive a message from one of my friends. He was super irritated because his visit to Germany had to be postponed as Lufthansa had canceled 1,800 flights because of a strike by the German airline's pilots over pay. 

As soon as I read that message I had a sense of Déjà vu... I had been Viktor Navorski myself because of Lufthansa strike and as cashless as I am now (off course due to demonetization!!!!!). Strangely enough these three (The Terminal, Lufthansa Airlines strike and 'Cashless India') mutually exclusive events were very much intertwined in my ‘The Terminal’ moment..... Akin to PIP TV, while I was watching Terminal, another movie started to roll in my mind....

Scene 1: Lufthansa Strike and 'Being Cashless'

Turning back few personal memory pages... here's how the events unfolded:

Circa 2008.... I was to attend a 2 week training in our Buenos Aires office. So began the visa activities... one of the major deviation in this visa process was the requirement of a recommendation letter from State Chamber of Commerce.. Luckily enough our company was already an associate member... so getting that letter was whole lot simpler than I expected and it was one of the few activities that were completed smoothly and effortlessly as far as my entire LatAm Sojourn was concerned...

So then...... Visa photos…Tick; Visa Form and compiling related documents....Tick....; the checklist of requirements was getting completed at a fast clip... I was all set for dossier submission to Argentina Embassy. Soon after all the docs were submitted and I was waiting for the visa to be granted. Few days after, I received a call from travel agent and while I hoped that he would give me a good news of my Argentina visa being stamped, he informed me that I will need to apply for Schengen Visa as well since I was traveling via Europe, my pitstop being Frankfurt Airport... so began the activities for Schengen activities... within 2-3 days, documents of Schengen visa were submitted. Finally after a gap of few anxious days.. I received both Schengen and Argentina visa duly stamped on my passport... I was elated and looking for my first trip to any Lat Am country.

But a certain Mr. Murphy standing at a distant corner was laughing and waiting for his turn to propel me into the realms of uncertainty!!!!!!

As the travel day was approaching, the first Murphy salvo was fired!!! Lufthansa staff decided to go on strike!!! The travel agent informed me that the airlines is forking out an arrangement with another airlines..... So much for their customer centricity, I thought!!!!

My LatAm journey had 3 travel sectors: Ahmedabad to Mumbai, Mumbai to Frankfurt and finally from Frankfurt to Buenos Aires. There was huge uncertainty about travel leg from Mumbai, as reticent Lufthansa staff was in no mood to roll back the strike. I still didn't have confirmed tickets, Passport with stamped visas for BA travel in my hand nevertheless I decided to start my journey from Ahmedabad.... As I landed in Mumbai and switched on my cell I saw 12 missed calls from the travel agent... I hoped that there is some good news in offing... Without even waiting to collect my bags I dialed for the travel agent.

“Sir, we have confirmed tickets for your travel to BA... (Sigh of relief form me), but Sir there's one problem, since we had Schengen visa we had to search for the route via Europe and the only route available is via Charles de Gaulle (CDG), Paris by Air France"

“I am fine with it... as long as we have confirmed booking"

“Yes Sir, we have already mailed you the itinerary and tickets few minutes back. But there's one problem... (Mr Murphy was in his elements I thought)... You land at CDG 7 am and your onward flight to BA is at 10 pm from CDG"

“I can roam around Paris city before I board my next flight, right?"

Again there was huge uncertainty whether I could roam around Paris city with just transit visa, as per my travel agent I needed Tourist Visa!!!!! Mr Murphy was shooting at will and has a license to kill; I thought...

Now that it was certain that finally I am flying to Argentina, another reality dawned on me!!! Because of such prevailing chaos, I was advised not to purchase any foreign currency for travel. So then, I had no foreign currency in my hand and I was traveling several thousands of kilometers. It was a case of Bravado or Foolhardiness!!! I can't choose between the two!!!!

Scene 2: The Terminal Moment:

"Ladies and gentlemen, please fasten your seatbelts and secure all baggage underneath your seat or in the overhead compartments. Ensure that your seats and table trays are in the upright position for take-off. Please turn off all personal electronic devices" instructed the Air France airhostess.... after all the chaos and uncertainty these words sounded like music to my ears as it was assuring that I am headed to CDG....one more step closer to final destination!!!

As the adrenaline surge returned to normalcy, I started to think about the options that I could trade after my landing at CDG.

Just like Viktor Navorski, I had to explain the entire situation to French Airport Authorities in an alien language (English!!???). He had inability to communicate in English and I was challenged in French. My previous experience of asking direction of Eiffel Tower in English to French man was so great (??!!) that ultimately I had to play dumb charades with that French guy. I later realized that what I was pronouncing as 'I Fell Tower', he knew it as ‘Tour 'Ee fell'... so keeping in mind this experience and uncertain moments I had gone through, I had decided to stay put at CDG airport.

Once I landed at CDG, I collected my luggage and from Arrival lounge I was ferried by airport bus to Departure terminal, I searched for a nice runway facing recliner seat and I parked myself there. My journey of being Viktor Navorski had just begun.... The Terminal Moment had finally arrived..

Watching zillions of planes taking off and landing at CDG, calmed my thumping heart and finally I started to believe that after this stopover of 15 hrs, I will be in BA; this feeling was really assuring, atleast they are not On Strike!!

After I reenergized myself with some great homemade food that I had carried with myself, I decided to explore CDG. I saw a bunch some happy and some very active travelers, bang in the middle of Terminal. As I moved towards that active area, I realized that it was 'Stay Connected Zone'!!!! For few Euros there was an opportunity to connect to world even though for some limited time... Just to put few things in perspective, I had no foreign exchange on me, I could not activate my International roaming and the smartest smartphone generally doled out in corporate India in those days was Blackberry Curve!!! iPhone was a luxury and style statement, whereas the Samsungs, the Micromaxs, the Oppos and the Vivos of the current world, were not the household names they are now, India still being a monetized economy free flowing currency notes was the preferred way of moeny transaction; digital wallets existed only in sci-fi movies.....so seeing that ‘Stay Connected Zone’ I was as happy as a kid in a candy shop!!! At that instant I fully realized what Mastercard, very proudly proclaimed in their ‘Priceless’ ad campaign…. "There are some things money can't buy. For everything else, there's MasterCard" as I could buy for myself the time slot on CDG airport even when I was completely broke and could connect to the world.

..... First I mailed my near and dear ones back in India that I could manage to reach this far... second mail was naturally sent to my office colleagues to let them know I am finally on my way.

Once that time slot was over, I turned into Viktor Navorski again!!! I decided to do some shop hopping and first in pecking order was…. treating myself with some aromatherapy!!! I entered into 'Body and Perfume Shops' and started testing all the perfumes available on the sale. When I finally exited from the shop, I had successfully managed to knock off 1 hour from my ‘15 Terminal hours’!! Another funny thought crossed my mind, I had tested so many perfumes, colognes during this self-help aromatherapy session that I felt I was like this big potpourri dried flower smelling of Armani, Hugo Boss, Grey Fennel, Versace!!!!

Buoyed by this first experience I set my eyes on luxurious and some uber luxurious accessories from the fashion houses of Bulgari, Mont Blanc, Hermès, Lois Vitton, Cartier, Swarovski. After this 1.5 hrs of fashion binge; I stepped out with refreshed mind and famished body!!!

After a session of serious gluttony, I was raring to go on my CDG expedition. Had another window shopping round of Relay and other accessories stores.

It was around evening now, the Sun was setting on Paris and so was my energy level. I wasn't the same enthusiastic CDG explorer that I was few hours ago!! So I posited myself on a nice tarmac facing recliner and started playing Solitaire (seriously???!!!) on my Laptop!!!! I could see many flights taking off/landing and few others plying across various parking bays. It was really fascinating to watch such a high number of flights controlled so seamlessly 24*7 by Air Traffic Control.

Zzzzzz...snoozed my phone and I awoke from the slumber. I didn't even realize when I fell asleep on that recliner!!! It was almost the time for my final flight of the journey that started from Ahmedabad.

"Welcome to Buenos Aires International Airport" when I heard these words, I couldn't believe that I had finally reached BA!!!

Elated by this new status- ‘Landed in BA’, I collected my bags from belt, seated myself in the cab that was already waiting for me and began an absolute last leg of my final destination: cozy and secure environs of my room!!! As soon as I reached in room, I just dropped my bags and collapsed on the bed and woke up next morning completely rejuvenated.

…..by the time I had reached last frame of my own PIP movie; I realized that Viktor has arrived in New York at the hotel where Benny Golson is performing, and he could finally collect the last autograph. "I am going home" says very satisfied Viktor as he steps into a taxi and places the last signature into the can; I thought my reaction would've been similar, "I am at home" when I woke up rejuvenated next morning.

Visit to Floralis Generica, watching Tango in the land of it's origin, visiting Eva Peron's tomb; were the perfect sweet fruits of labor; that I had endured to reach Buenos Aires.






P.S.: The Terminal is partially inspired by the 18-year stay of Mehran Karimi Nasseri in Terminal 1 of Charles de Gaulle International AirportParisFrance, from 1988 to 2006!!!!! What a coincidence!!!


Thursday 7 July 2016

Fifty Shades of Yellow

Navigating at an altitude of around 12,000 feet above sea level, when you see stony yellow mountain changing its colour from yellow to dark grey right in front of you and that too within fraction of few seconds, you get mesmerized, you get goosebumps and If you don’t; you have got to be a robot!!! I certainly was no robot and I was literally bamboozled by what I was witnessing. 50 shades of yellow swept the floor beneath me!!!!!!





The blog post name might be similar but, nope; this post is not even distantly related to 50 Shades of Grey. This post is all about how I got laid…oops… I meant Leh'd or to be even more precise, how I got Ladakh’d. 


I was always fascinated with this amazing region and a visit to Leh was on my list for a long time!!! After an extensive research about the safest and most convenient way to reach Leh (without getting affected by the altitude changes), I realized that the road to Leh is via Srinagar and thus eventough it was not in the itinerary to begin with; Srinagar and Kashmir got drafted into the tour!!!!! Can you imagine Paradise on Earth, as Kashmir has often been referred to, as a tag along in the itinerary!!!!! That’s the extent to which I was fascinated by Ladakh, the land of high passes....

Kashmir tour began with stay in houseboat @ Dal Lake and then progressed through Gulmarg, Sonmarg and ended with Pahalgam. The beauty of Kashmir starts engulfing you slowly… Two colours dominate the entire landscape- Green and White..The sobriquet ‘Paradise on Earth’ is indeed well deserved…

Sunset at Dal Lake, Srinagar

Betaab Valley at Pahalgam

Lush green plane and snow clad mountain at Gulmarg
After this lush green and snowy white Kashmir; we began adventure filled journey to Leh via 434 KM long Srinagar- Leh Highway.. It also happens to be National Highway 1 (NH-1). 

Traversing through one of the most difficult passes; (this is my opinion) Zoji La (La = Pass) our first destination was Kargil!! Zoji La is about 9 Km from Sonmarg and is at an altitude of 11,575 ft. One of the most challenging part of this entire journey is road or lack of it!!!

However one must take into account the geographical conditions of the surrounding area before lamenting on the poor condition. The entire area is snow clad for almost 8-9 months and is completely inaccessible during this period. Border Roads Organization (BRO) an organization which operates and maintains roads in this region does a fantabulous job!!!    

I learnt that each year BRO loses few of their men while opening this road for travel!!! With officers and troops drawn from various outfits of Indian Army, BRO is the real force majeure, why we can connect to Ladakh…. Here’s my standing ovation to BRO. 

As we started to move away from Sonmarg; we began to notice the difference between Kashmir and Ladakh region… once ubiquitous lush green starts getting replaced by breathtaking stony yellow. After a first pit stop at Kargil, we began our move to Leh via, Namika La (12,198 ft) and Fotu La (13, 478 ft- Highest Point in Srinagar- Leh journey)…

 


We got used to the stony yellow colour surroundings, as we began to navigate through these ‘Passes’…

It's amazing to see, the geographical landscape change so very drastically within few hundred kilometers…. Whilst Kashmir is green, Ladakh is yellow, if Jammu/Kashmir is Beauty then Ladakh is an absolute Beast…. albeit a beautiful one!!!!!!!

Cloud shadows playing hide-n-seek
Cloud shadows playing hide-n-seek

This terrain is a completely different and this stark colour contrast, hit me even more since we were used to seeing lush green valley and hills while we were in Jammu-Kashmir region…..Ladakh terrain is absolutely raw, rugged and barren.. however there’s one thing common between Ladakh and Jammu Kashmir region and that is abundant natural beauty….the vast barren expanse of yellow mountains bowl you over with their shear ruggedness and beauty...  

one out of 50 shades of Yellow

Ladakh is not just about huge mountains, there is more to it… Can you imagine a desert at around 10000 feet with flowing river and snow capped mountains; well Ladakh has it!!! We witnessed Hunder Sand dunes at Nubra valley.. It has all the natural elements in one place… Water, sand, mountains, greenery… Serenity filled Nubra valley is a stunning place… To reach this natural wonder, one needs to crisscross through one of greatest tourist or should I say biker’s attractions- Khardung- La!!!!! The highest motorable road in world at an altitude of 18380 ft!!!! Travelling thorough pass Khardung- La was a real breath taking experience!!!     

 
Sand dunes, patch of green at Hunder, Nubra Valley

The last hurrah of this Leh sojourn was the azure Pangong Tso (tso = lake), a saline water lake spread over 134 km…. 

.... Oh WOWWW!!!!!! was the only reaction of one and all when we got the first glimpse of Pangong… a blue spot visible amidst the stony yellow mountains… We were still faraway from the blue spectacle that is Pangong Tso… Showroom mein itana.. toh godaam mein kitna was my reaction; and it did not disappoint us one bit… The blue spot started to grow bigger and bigger as we moved towards the lake…


Blue spot of Pangong Tso peeping through the yellow mountains

Blue spot of Pangong Tso peeping through the yellow mountains

Colour changes is very much a normal event in Ladakh and this fantabulous lake is no exception…The hues that we saw from top i.e. en-route to Pangong and the colours that we saw when we were at ground level were vastly different… While we could notice the tinge of sea-green from top; it was all azure from ground level….. 

                                            
Various hues of blue, green en-route to Pangong Tso 


Various hues of blue, green en-route to Pangong Tso


The azure Pangong Tso
Feeling the cold saline water of Pangong- Tso on my feet, watching it change colour-was the fitting finale of this long journey. It was that 'AHA' moment, it was that 'epiphany moment' of the adventure called Ladakh...  

I feel at the loss of words to express this Ladakh experience.. the ever changing shades of stony yellow colour mesmerize you every time you see it. It's really mesmerizing to see the entire mountain changing it's colour right in front of your eyes. Sunlight and the area under the cloud cover lead to these sudden colour changes. I had not seen something like this ever before and that’s why I describe Ladakh as land of 50 shades of Yellow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Serenity, the ethereal feeling that you experience while at Pangong, at Nubra Valley is just beyond the realms of anything that you have experienced so far. Words/language is very mundane, inadequate way to communicate that feeling, that emotion… One has to undergo that surreal experience, one has to feel that moment...... 

Amir Khusro had famously said about Kashmir:

Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast

English Translation: 

If there is a paradise on earth,
It is this, it is this, it is this

I think Amir Khusro had not travelled to Ladakh, he had not seen 50 shades of Yellow.....



P.S: How can Amir Khusro travel to Ladakh, there was no BRO then; to connect Ladakh to beautiful Kashmir!!!!!!! 


Happy New Year